KLX650R - Old Setup Info
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KLX650R - Old Setup Info
by Kawibunga Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:01 pm
So while looking and searching for some specs I came across this post on a 3 wheeled site. Good info and think I was lucky to stumble across it so thought I'd share. Sounds like the poster was a serious KLX enthusiast!
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/172599-Klx650r
Super soft front springs & rear spring, too much rear sag, too little fork preload, too light compression damping in the forks, too light low & high speed compression damping in the shock, mid speed & high speed rebound is to light in the shock, worst rear shock bumper ever, chain guide snaps off if it sniffs a rock, rear end is too low which gives the bike too much rake, does not turn well or hold a inside line, front end pushes in turns, small gas tank, poor clutch lever assembly, kick stand falls down while riding.
What I did for mods-
302+ lbs, Dry weight- lighten it up as much as possible-
-Remove the kick stand, saves weight (Find a tree or dump the clutch & free stand)
-Changed the front fender to a KX250, same year its lighter and narrower, the fork guards don’t run into it a break & it helps mentally (It does not look like you are riding school bus will riding)
-Changed the rear fender to a 1992-1993 KX250, lighter, no tail light.
-Removed the head light & odometer, the headlight is so weak you can’t ride at night and the odometer strips out. Best of all it saves weight. Run a KX250 number plate.
-Gearing stock is 14/49 (I never run a smaller counter shaft sprocket because of chain torque & I don’t want to saw my chain buffer or swing arm in half) I loved 14/51 or 14/52.
-Chain guide, reinforce it by adding an aluminum plate to the “back side” of the guide, use longer metric grade 8 bolts, easy mod.
-Exhaust, anything will work better! I liked at the time Supertrapp or White Bros with at least 1” of baffles, I prefered 1 ½” worth. ( I can’t remember how many baffles that was, sorry) If you can change the head pipe, but it is not needed. The welds inside the pipe can be cleaned up on the stocker.
-Air box, remove the air filter lid & trim the top down ½” away from the seat pan. Throw the stock filter as far as you can and use a Twin Air with Twin Air filter fluid (They still make them) Uni filters are my second choice on this bike.
Front brakes- change to a 1992-1996 Honda CR125, 250 0r 500 complete master cylinder & lever (Ebay) bolt it up and tap the banjo bolt fitting with a dead blow mallet so it does not hit the handle bar. (Its easier than it sounds) I use Motul 660 synthetic brake fluid, only, period! (Must have, simply the best, IMHO) Bleed with a Mini-Vac and tap the brake line up and down with a wrench while bleeding, Kawasaki’s have a habit of hiding air in the brake lines. I use aftermarket “Soft” brake pads, but if you ride in a lot of mud you want a harder compound. Now your front brake will stop this big boy.
Rear brake- (same instructions) I use Motul 660 synthetic brake fluid. Bleed with a Mini-Vac and tap the brake line up and down with a wrench while bleeding, Kawasaki’s have a habit of hiding air in the brake lines. I use aftermarket “Soft” brake pads, but if you ride in a lot of mud you want a harder compound. Now your rear brake will stop this big boy.
-Remove brake glaze with emery cloth, clean with brake cleaner. (These discs like to polish up and queek)
-Jetting (At sea level to 4,000 ft,) Plus one clip richer on the needle, 158 or 160 main jet, replace the needle jet nozzle with a 01B38, zero idle! The weight and poor stock brakes don’t need any extra help.
-Over heating keep the stock cooling fan, strip the radiators of all that heavy rubbery stock black paint that has probably been repainted a few times over the years. use Berryman Chem-dip carb. & parts cleaner, 1 gallon, plug the holes and submerge until the paint is removed, re dip if needed, wash with Dawn soap & water then leave them the natural finish.
Run a higher PSI Mylers or other radiator cap.
Run distilled water with water wetter, no coolant unless the bike is stored below 32 degrees. (This mod makes a huge difference)
Strip the swing arm why you are at it with the extra dip and polish with a green scotch bright pad sprayed with WD40, it will look trick polished and it is easy to take care of. (Lighter too…LOL)
-Fuel Tank its small, but leave it or “swell it” for ½ gallon of extra fuel, the IMS after market tanks are- HUGE!, they make the bike hard to ride unless you are a bull rider and put more high placed weight on the bike.
-Clutch, use heavier springs or shim the 5 springs with 5- 14mm spark plug washers. The clutch gets weak from the added power. Use a complete Honda CR clutch perch, lever, bolt, nut and clamp set-up or aftermarket equivalent (Must have mod)
-Bars I love aluminum Honda high CR bend cut down 12mm per side. The stock bars are junk and the sweep is back too far.
-Rims the stockers are butter soft, Excel or DID with Buchanan spokes and Excel nipples will save the day. For motocross tracks we ran a 19” rear rim. Honda CR rim locks are much better than the Kawasaki’s.
-Seat, the stock seat is very soft and not all that “flat” change to a aftermarket seat foam & cover, I used a “tall” seat or at least run two seat covers to stiffen it up.
-Front suspension I modded the stock front springs from .43 kg/mm to .45 kg/mm and used 15mm of preload (Heavy bike) I revalved the forks for more compression damping, single stage stack. KYB 01 oil set at 100mm from the top, tubes bleed, springs out. Compression clickers 8 out. Polished cart. rod. This bike has no rebound adjusters…Boo! Front fork tube height set at 10mm above the triple clamp.
-Rear suspension I modded the rear spring from 7.4 kg/mm to 7.7 kg/mm. Rear sag set at 95mm, I extended the rear shock travel 6mm, which lifted the rear of the bike approx. 1” (You may need a 6mm spring preload spacer) I revalved for more low & high speed compression damping & more mid speed & high speed rebound damping. I used a KYB “works” shock bottoming bumper. The stocker is way too soft & breaks down in hours. Compression clicker 10-12 out. Rebound clicker 12 out. Nitrogen PSI 150. KYB shock fluid. No piston bleed hole. Chamfered piston.
With these mods this bike rips! You will never see a XR, Husky or KTM from the rear. (Same era of bike) It will “hang” with the new high tech four stokes for pennies on the dollar.
I am here to help if you have questions, or PM me.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/172599-Klx650r
Super soft front springs & rear spring, too much rear sag, too little fork preload, too light compression damping in the forks, too light low & high speed compression damping in the shock, mid speed & high speed rebound is to light in the shock, worst rear shock bumper ever, chain guide snaps off if it sniffs a rock, rear end is too low which gives the bike too much rake, does not turn well or hold a inside line, front end pushes in turns, small gas tank, poor clutch lever assembly, kick stand falls down while riding.
What I did for mods-
302+ lbs, Dry weight- lighten it up as much as possible-
-Remove the kick stand, saves weight (Find a tree or dump the clutch & free stand)
-Changed the front fender to a KX250, same year its lighter and narrower, the fork guards don’t run into it a break & it helps mentally (It does not look like you are riding school bus will riding)
-Changed the rear fender to a 1992-1993 KX250, lighter, no tail light.
-Removed the head light & odometer, the headlight is so weak you can’t ride at night and the odometer strips out. Best of all it saves weight. Run a KX250 number plate.
-Gearing stock is 14/49 (I never run a smaller counter shaft sprocket because of chain torque & I don’t want to saw my chain buffer or swing arm in half) I loved 14/51 or 14/52.
-Chain guide, reinforce it by adding an aluminum plate to the “back side” of the guide, use longer metric grade 8 bolts, easy mod.
-Exhaust, anything will work better! I liked at the time Supertrapp or White Bros with at least 1” of baffles, I prefered 1 ½” worth. ( I can’t remember how many baffles that was, sorry) If you can change the head pipe, but it is not needed. The welds inside the pipe can be cleaned up on the stocker.
-Air box, remove the air filter lid & trim the top down ½” away from the seat pan. Throw the stock filter as far as you can and use a Twin Air with Twin Air filter fluid (They still make them) Uni filters are my second choice on this bike.
Front brakes- change to a 1992-1996 Honda CR125, 250 0r 500 complete master cylinder & lever (Ebay) bolt it up and tap the banjo bolt fitting with a dead blow mallet so it does not hit the handle bar. (Its easier than it sounds) I use Motul 660 synthetic brake fluid, only, period! (Must have, simply the best, IMHO) Bleed with a Mini-Vac and tap the brake line up and down with a wrench while bleeding, Kawasaki’s have a habit of hiding air in the brake lines. I use aftermarket “Soft” brake pads, but if you ride in a lot of mud you want a harder compound. Now your front brake will stop this big boy.
Rear brake- (same instructions) I use Motul 660 synthetic brake fluid. Bleed with a Mini-Vac and tap the brake line up and down with a wrench while bleeding, Kawasaki’s have a habit of hiding air in the brake lines. I use aftermarket “Soft” brake pads, but if you ride in a lot of mud you want a harder compound. Now your rear brake will stop this big boy.
-Remove brake glaze with emery cloth, clean with brake cleaner. (These discs like to polish up and queek)
-Jetting (At sea level to 4,000 ft,) Plus one clip richer on the needle, 158 or 160 main jet, replace the needle jet nozzle with a 01B38, zero idle! The weight and poor stock brakes don’t need any extra help.
-Over heating keep the stock cooling fan, strip the radiators of all that heavy rubbery stock black paint that has probably been repainted a few times over the years. use Berryman Chem-dip carb. & parts cleaner, 1 gallon, plug the holes and submerge until the paint is removed, re dip if needed, wash with Dawn soap & water then leave them the natural finish.
Run a higher PSI Mylers or other radiator cap.
Run distilled water with water wetter, no coolant unless the bike is stored below 32 degrees. (This mod makes a huge difference)
Strip the swing arm why you are at it with the extra dip and polish with a green scotch bright pad sprayed with WD40, it will look trick polished and it is easy to take care of. (Lighter too…LOL)
-Fuel Tank its small, but leave it or “swell it” for ½ gallon of extra fuel, the IMS after market tanks are- HUGE!, they make the bike hard to ride unless you are a bull rider and put more high placed weight on the bike.
-Clutch, use heavier springs or shim the 5 springs with 5- 14mm spark plug washers. The clutch gets weak from the added power. Use a complete Honda CR clutch perch, lever, bolt, nut and clamp set-up or aftermarket equivalent (Must have mod)
-Bars I love aluminum Honda high CR bend cut down 12mm per side. The stock bars are junk and the sweep is back too far.
-Rims the stockers are butter soft, Excel or DID with Buchanan spokes and Excel nipples will save the day. For motocross tracks we ran a 19” rear rim. Honda CR rim locks are much better than the Kawasaki’s.
-Seat, the stock seat is very soft and not all that “flat” change to a aftermarket seat foam & cover, I used a “tall” seat or at least run two seat covers to stiffen it up.
-Front suspension I modded the stock front springs from .43 kg/mm to .45 kg/mm and used 15mm of preload (Heavy bike) I revalved the forks for more compression damping, single stage stack. KYB 01 oil set at 100mm from the top, tubes bleed, springs out. Compression clickers 8 out. Polished cart. rod. This bike has no rebound adjusters…Boo! Front fork tube height set at 10mm above the triple clamp.
-Rear suspension I modded the rear spring from 7.4 kg/mm to 7.7 kg/mm. Rear sag set at 95mm, I extended the rear shock travel 6mm, which lifted the rear of the bike approx. 1” (You may need a 6mm spring preload spacer) I revalved for more low & high speed compression damping & more mid speed & high speed rebound damping. I used a KYB “works” shock bottoming bumper. The stocker is way too soft & breaks down in hours. Compression clicker 10-12 out. Rebound clicker 12 out. Nitrogen PSI 150. KYB shock fluid. No piston bleed hole. Chamfered piston.
With these mods this bike rips! You will never see a XR, Husky or KTM from the rear. (Same era of bike) It will “hang” with the new high tech four stokes for pennies on the dollar.
I am here to help if you have questions, or PM me.
Kawibunga- Posts : 9
Join date : 2019-11-06
Location : Alberta
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