Auto Compression Release

- Auto cam tensioner and the auto decompression release used for starting can be an issue
- They have fixes for both though the KLR uses the latter and no one complains
- Typical power mods are:
* shim the carb needle
* screw out the pilot jet a little, bigger main jet
* remove the airbox top

- This along with a good foam air filter and aftermarket exhaust is all I have done and it made a noticeable difference

Credit: ItsaTDM

- Agree with most of what ITS has to say

- I use an API cam tensioner easier and more reliable than applying the "fix" in my book

- The stock setup must be corrected as it simply does not work.
- If the motor makes an ice crusher type sound at idle the chain tensioner is fubar.

- Auto compression release is not really a problem

- You just need to make sure the little spring doesn't get snookered when adjusting valves and such

- It is the same concept as a centrifugal advance unit in an old distributor

- Doing the valve adjust on this engine is not easy

- it is a shim over bucket system and requires removal of both cams if any one of the valves needs a different shim
- Takes some doing, Fortunately, they don't go out often
- Be careful not to let the engine ever run on when the bike is on its side
- Oil starvation on this beast will happen quickly and will cause certain damage to the plain bearings under the cam shafts. Nearly impossible to repair

- careful about not getting the jetting too rich
- I am not a big fan of the CVK carb (same one as the KLR)
- Converted mine to a 39mm FCR and love it, but it's not a cheap mod
- One of the reasons I gave up on the CVK is that mine was tearing diaphragms often while bouncing through rough terrain
- Could be that it had a burr or other defect that I never sorted out
-Even one incident like this in a remote area tends to sour the spirit.
- For reference, Harley's use nearly the same carb and many parts are interchangeable and cheaper than the Kawi's.

Credit: R-DUbb